Tuesday, March 26, 2024

The ochs line day/night

From ochs und junior -
Courtesy of ochs und junior
This is the latest addition to ochs und junior's ochs line - the ochs line day/night.

The day/night is one of ochs und junior's most sought after customized watches. It is now available in ochs und junior's "ready to wear" segment - the ochs line.

Here are the pertinents, straight from the 
source -

Dimensions

40mm x 11mm (incl. crystal).

Weight

61g in titanium (incl. leather strap and buckle).

Water resistance

100m in titanium.

Case

2-part case in grade 5 titanium designed by Ludwig Oechslin. Visible machining marks.

Base movement

Ulysse Nardin UN-320 with a power reserve of 48 hours. Manufacturer: Ulysse Nardin SA / Le Locle / Switzerland.

Crown

Screw-down crown designed by Ludwig Oechslin in grade 5 titanium.

Buckle

In Grade 5 titanium designed by Ludwig Oechslin for 22mm watch straps with no loops. Visible machining marks.

Watch strap and leather pouch

Ecopell Enzian leather strap in S/M/L/XL and leather pouch handmade by Sabina Brägger.

Sapphire crystal

Sapphire crystal, both sides are treated with anti-reflective coating.

Swiss made

The ochs und junior day/night watch is manufactured in Switzerland. The base movement Ulysse Nardin UN-320 is produced in Le Locle / Switzerland. Each watch is hand-assembled decorated, and regulated at the ochs und junior workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

Warranty

The entire watch is covered by a 2-year guarantee.

Design

Ludwig Oechslin and ochs und junior, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Non-customizable.


The ochs line day/night

Length of day and nighttime for a selected location, sunset, sunrise, solar noon, moon phase, sun and moon position in the sky, date, hour, and minute.

Case in Grade 5 titanium 40mm | Dial in dark blue, which changes to violet and eggplant color, markers in brass | Hour and minute hand in lightly-polished brass | Daytime in brass, nighttime in dark blue purple patina | Sun in hammered 24-karat yellow gold | Moon in hammered platinum PT950 | Date disk in dark blue purple patina, date in brass | Ulysse Nardin UN-320 | Dark blue (Enzian) Ecopell leather strap (in sizes S / M / L / XL) and leather pouch handmade by Sabina Brägger | Warranty two years | Shipping with DHL Express or FedEx priority | Non-customizable.

CHF 11'566.70 — Incl. 8.1% VAT.
CHF 10'700.00 — Export price.


Saturday, March 23, 2024

The ULM and WÜRZBURG

From Laco -

From Laco

These are the two latest offerings from Laco. Both true pilot's watches that call on the rich history of Laco while providing a completely up-to-date watch.

This is the ULM in the 42.5 mm size. Here are the pertinents -

MOVEMENT:
handwinding movement Laco 98 bridges with Côtes de Genève, thermical blued screws, ratchet wheel and crown wheel with sun ray finish, ratchet wheel with engraved Laco Logo
basic movement ETA 6498.2 , quality level top
CASE:
stainless steel case with a polished and sandblasted finish, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, screwed case back with extra large sapphire crystal
DIAL:
Black mat, arabic figures and indexes with luminous material Superluminova C3, execution according original navigator watch with type A dial, small second at 6 h
HANDS:
All hands thermally blued and filled with luminous material Superluminova C3
STRAP:
Brown leather strap, stainless steel buckle
BOX:
Grey gift watch box with zipper
DIAMETER:
42,5 mm
HEIGHT:
11,0 mm
LUG WIDTH:
22,0 mm
LUG TO LUG:
49,8 mm
WATERPROOF:
up to 10 ATM
WEIGHT:
80 g (incl. strap)
ARM CIRCUMFERENCE:
17,0 - 21,0 cm



Courtesy of Laco

And this (above) is the WÜRZBURG -

MOVEMENT:
handwinding movement Laco 98 bridges with Côtes de Genève, thermical blued screws, ratchet wheel and crown wheel with sun ray finish, ratchet wheel with engraved Laco Logo
basic movement ETA 6498.2 , quality level top
CASE:
stainless steel case with a polished and sandblasted finish, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, screwed case back with extra large sapphire crystal
DIAL:
Black mat, arabic figures and indexes with luminous material Superluminova C3, execution according original navigator watch with type B dial, small second at 6 h
HANDS:
All hands thermally blued and filled with luminous material Superluminova C3
STRAP:
Brown leather strap, stainless steel buckle
BOX:
Grey gift watch box with zipper
DIAMETER:
42,5 mm
HEIGHT:
11,0 mm
LUG WIDTH:
22,0 mm
LUG TO LUG:
49,8 mm
WATERPROOF:
up to 10 ATM
WEIGHT:
80 g (incl. strap)
ARM CIRCUMFERENCE:
17,0 - 21,0 cm

When The Glass Is Not Even Half-Full, But Broken

It's time for the semi-annual cut the shit episode here at Henki Time. Having spent the better part of the last week in the real capital of Swiss watch making (that would be Biel/Bienne, Le Locle, La Chaux-de-Fonds and the surrounding areas), let's just say that the hot air being pumped out of Geneva, Zurich and other "fancier" places is just that.

There are many tell-tale signs, but the most obvious are the rumors (now growing louder and more frequent) about layoffs in the Jura and surrounding area. This will, of course, have zero impact on the shot-callers and big dogs, but most likely the watch makers and roll players who did as instructed. While the big dogs drop off their suits for a quick cleaning before the Kabuki theatre that is Watches and Wondering  the realities of poor decision making and poorer oversight continue to haunt the industry as a whole. But not to worry, the press releases will certainly only reflect triumph!

But what Gregory Pons of Business Montres refers to as "Musical Chairs" is no game to take lightly. There are a lot of people depending on each other to make everything work out. More than a few suppliers are delivering even later than usual. This then impacts supply deliveries, watch assemblies and ultimately sales. But it is highly unlikely that any big bosses are going anywhere. No, where the real pain is being felt is most likely going to be the actual people who make the actual watches that you might, gentle reader, actually buy ; ) 

Think I'm full of it? Well, let's examine what was once referred to as "trickle-down" economics. The idea was that the bounty enjoyed at the top will overflow and trickle down. Let's start with the carrion crows of Watch Town - the Fourth and Fifth Estates. For many of my brothers and sisters out their hustling for whatever might not be gobbled up by the bigger outlets, times are looking pretty tough. And even the mighty are feeling the pinch of uncertainty. After just a month or so on the masthead of a certain media outlet, the Chief Operating Officer who appeared in January is no longer there. As is often the case at this certain media outlet, it is impossible to really know the comings and goings as they are rarely clearly articulated. But it is clear that the Masthead has shrunk considerably in the recent years, as has the amount of coverage.

Now it is also interesting to consider that press invites for the show formerly known as the SIHH (Watches and Wonders) are still handed out to exactly the same cast of characters from the same outlets with - you guessed it, the same impact. Now I know that this is going to sound crazy, but isn't the idea of marketing to spread the word about your product BEYOND its already existing customer / enthusiast base?
But that certain media outelt and the other big dogs need not worry, the same contortions will still be performed by the same brands to ensure that media outlets that cover them once or twice a year will have multiple invitations (which in turn ensures that other outlets will be excluded). Say what you want about BaselWorld, it was a democratic meritocracy. Anyone who was willing to get themselves there would be able to get appointments with brands. But as someone who has been referred to as notable, but not welcome at SIHH / Watches And Wonders, I continue to be astonished by the merry-go-round that is media relations in Watch Town.
And in truth, the approach to media relations is no different than Watch Town's approach to most everything else. 

So what? What's the point? In fairness, I am not saying anything here that I haven't been saying for years. And maybe that is exactly the point! I think that probably, deep down? Watch Town's residents don't really want anything to change. 
Despite impassioned mini speeches no doubt fueled by multiple servings of ardent social lubricants, the same mistakes will continue to be made, because ultimately? Change is probably a bit too scary.


I took a moment this past Thursday to reflect on the nearly 14 years I've spent covering the comings and goings of Watch Town at Caffe Specttacolo in front of the Biel/Bienne station waiting for my train back to Zurich airport. And I must say that I thought about it all and laughed a bit, raising more than one eyebrow from my fellow cafe guests.  Because it occurred to me, that despite its flaws and frustrations, I do love this world that is Watch Town ; )

Friday, March 22, 2024

Spending Time with the Pequignet Concorde

So after a fun-filled few weeks, it's time for the Pequignet Concorde to wing its way home.

So let's start off with the vital statistics. The Concorde is Pequignet's take on an integrated bracelet watch. It is available in either a 36 mm and 40 mm case size. It is available in several color ways including green, pink, charcoal grey, gold, two different silver versions, and of course the blue dial above. The technical specifications, per Pequignet:
Case
316L polish, satin finish stainless steel
Crown with embossed « Fleur-de-Lys » logo
Details of the dial
Blue Navy
Polish steel hours and minutes’ hands,
Super Luminova TC1 (blue),
polish steel seconds’ hand
Large date display at 3.00
Details of the movement
Calibre Initial®
Dual direction winding
Frequency of 4Hz (28,800 Alt./h)
21 jewels
Stop second
Pierced oscillating weight with snailing decoration and embossed
« Fleur-de-Lys » logo.
Case thickness (in mm)
9.25
Waterproofing (ATM)
10
Back of case
Secured by 6 screws, sapphire opening on the movement
Power reserve time
65 hours

My test drive was with the 40 mm version in blue. 

The Concorde is an extremely easy to wear, comfortable watch. the squared / cushion style case sat quite well on my wrist, much of this is owing to the thickness - 9.25 mm.

Yes, it certainly has presence, but it is not a wrist-bound man-hole cover either.





The clasp is a butterfly style, operating with two push pieces. It creates a seamless closure, not bumps, buckles, etc. to sit out and snag your shirt sleeve ; )




The case finish work is solid, and this attention to detail carries through from the case, to the bracelet, and to the crown. Speaking of which, the crown is incredibly smooth to operate, the hand winding is buttery soft and smooth - and yes that is a good thing.


And finally, as this is Pequignet who are more than just a little famous for their in-house movements, let's talk about what's under the hood -

The Concorde utilizes Pequignet's  Calibre Initial®. This is a lovely movement offering hours, minutes, seconds and the date. The execution and finishing level are beyond reproach, and the timekeeping was spot-on. I experienced no deviations of any significance wither plus or minus. But in addition, I was quite impressed with the power reserve. I went two days without wearing over two days, and it was bang-on. Now it is worth noting that the advertised power reserve is 65 hours. With that said, Mileage often varies on these things once you get beyond 36 hours. I will also note that I made no special efforts to fully wind the watch, so i was pleasantly surprised when we were well into the sixtieth hour and no measurable loss or gain in time.

Courtesy of Pequignet

So now, to the bottom line - how much is this wrist bound bijoux going to set you back?

The Concorde's suggested retail price is 4,000 Euros. The 36 mm version is slightly less at 3,800 Euros. This does put the Concorde into some competition in terms of what else is out there at this price point. But I think it holds its own given what you get for your money. And in fairness, it is highly unlikely you will run into anyone at the next watch collector gathering wearing a Pequignet.

So overall? I would say you could do a lot worse, and you are unlikely to find an integrated bracelet piece at the quality level, with an in-house movement at this price point. The challenge will be finding a retail partner as Pequignet's distribution is not the largest in the world, but with that said you can order direct from the brand at https://pequignet.com/

Sunday, March 3, 2024

The Lip T18 Original - All the Details!

So back on Friday we had a little amuse-bouche from Besançon -
Courtesy of Lip

And now it's time for the plat principal (that's main dish, to you)!

As previously mentioned, this is a reintroduction of the Lip T18. It is a very exciting step for Lip, as it brings forth the idea of a watch not only designed and assembled in Besançon, but one with a movement conceived and assembled there as well. 

Courtesy of Lip

Per Lip
"The components of its movement are machined in Switzerland by the La Joux-Perret factory and assembled in Besançon by the Humbert-Droz company. The casing and inspection are carried out in the LIP workshops in Besançon."

Courtesy of Lip

This is a very, very limited release of 180 pieces. So if it's in your wheelhouse, I suggest you move with a purpose before they are all gone!

Courtesy of Lip

Here are the pertinents -


Watch reference
676000

Movement
Exclusive mechanical movement from the Lip brand, entirely finished and assembled in Besançon with 118 parts from the Jura watchmaking arc, it has dimensions and specifications identical to the very first T18 from 1933. Barrel shape - Size 18 x 28.5 mm - Thickness 4.05 mm - frequency: 3 Hertz or 21,600 vibrations per hour – 21 ruby - 40 hour power reserve – precision –12 seconds to +12 seconds/24h

Case
10 micron gold plated steel (1st layer of 5 microns 18 carat gold, 2nd layer of 5 micron 24 carat gold). 
24 mm wide x 34.5 mm long. 
10 mm thick 
41.5 mm from lug to lug
20 mm lug width

Case back -
Display back fixed by 4 screws

Water Resistance -
30 meters

Dial
A reproduction of the T18 model offered to Winston Churchill in 1948. Gunmetal colored hands, with an off-center second hand at 6 o'clock, gunmetal colored applied indexes, with Arabic numerals

Crystal
Domed sapphire with anti-reflective treatment, thickness of 2.35 mm

Strap
Black, genuine alligator leather, 20 mm lug width, produced by the Sibra company in Besançon

Buckle
Gold-plated steel deployant

Warranty 
2 years

Made in France - Besançon

€2,490.00
Tax included

The Mechanica B02 Titanium

From DONE - 

Courtesy of DONE

This one might be a just a bit under the radar, but that doesn't mean it should be!

Since their founding in 2016, DONE has been steadily establishing their design philosophy - mechanical movements that take pride of place in the entire watch. 

Courtesy of DONE

This is the Mechanica B02 Titanium. The case measures 43.8 mm in diameter, is of Grade 5 titanium. The movement is based on ETA's 6497-1. This is one of the most iconic hand-wound movements available, with the skeletonization undertaken by DONE in house.

The movement is laid bare, encased by anti reflective, scratch resistant crystals.

The Mechanica B02 is quite fairly priced at CHF 2,516.00, and is available directly from DONE.

Here are the pertinents -

CASE

Diameter
43.8mm

Thickness
10.9mm

Length
51.6mm (lug to lug)

Material
Grade 5 titanium 

Water Resistance
10 ATM (100m)

Sapphire Crystal
Anti-reflective, scratch resistant on both sides

MOVEMENT

Model
ETA 6497-1 Swiss Made

Power Reserve
46 hours (±2h)

Movement Frequency
2.5Hz


Skeletonization
DONE Skeleton Design 

Coating
DLC Black (Diamond Like Carbon)